Hotel Review: Andaz Napa in Napa, Calif.

A much needed alternative to Napa’s cutesy bed-and-breakfasts and wine-centric resorts, from $199 to $339.

BASICS

Opened in September in the shell of a former Avia hotel, the 141-room Andaz Napa is the first in Hyatt’s stylish Andaz chain in the Bay Area. Tech-savvy touches (guests are checked in by roaming staff members carrying iPads) and Napa-focused features (from the artful map on the lobby wall to the locally produced toiletries) make this Andaz seem surprisingly at home in Northern California.

LOCATION

While the area’s allure — hills lined with vineyards, celebrated restaurants and rural beauty — lies in its small towns and countryside, there’s much to be said for a downtown hotel. Minutes off Highway 29, the main artery through the valley, Andaz Napa is also within several blocks of a dozen or so tasting rooms, the Oxbow Public Market and Napa’s revitalized riverfront.

THE ROOM

The hotel’s common areas evoke an arty, youthful, cosmopolitan sensibility, but rooms are more subdued and rooted in Northern California cool. There are greens, browns and creams, marble and wood-grain, maroon and gray. They range from my Andaz King, which was only somewhat larger (though several notches more luxurious) than a standard motel room, to the 945-square-foot Vintner Suite with a double-sided fireplace and balcony.

On a recent visit, local Fatted Calf beef jerky, a seasonal tomato salad and sourdough crostini were delivered as a free snack upon check-in. It made up for the dirty, half-empty mini-fridge, which included Fentimans fermented soda and craft beer from North Coast brewery and Anderson Valley Brewing Company. The countertop mini-bar had a modest selection of artisanal liquors, like gin from Alameda’s St. George Spirits.

THE BATHROOM

Spacious and austere, the marble and glass room had a large walk-in shower with a waterfall head and a small teak bench. True to its all-things-local approach, bath products are Lydia Mondavi’s 29, named for the Napa highway.

AMENITIES

The hotel doesn’t have its own workout room, but has partnered with a full-service gym next door that offers yoga, Pilates mat, Zumba and other classes. There are also frequent wine tastings in the lobby, a hardwood roof deck with porch swings and a fire pit, free wireless Internet and free self-parking (valet is $17).

The Farmers Table restaurant has the obligatory locavore menu, complete with a list of purveyors and uninspired but appetizing dishes like herb-broiled California sea bass with roasted vegetables ($20) and a grass-fed beef burger ($15). While service was slow and indifferent, the homey dining room (think green velvet couches, communal tables and a glowing fireplace) is a pleasant place to wait.

ROOM SERVICE

An after-dinner order of chocolate cake and camomile tea arrived in 20 minutes, with friendly instructions on steeping time. A $3 delivery fee and an 18 percent tip were charged automatically to the room.

BOTTOM LINE

While the staff can seem a bit too laid-back, business travelers, wedding parties and urbanites will appreciate the hotel’s contemporary style, downtown location and bustling lobby bar.